Process for the manufacture of a transpirable, permeable, elastic fabric or a non woven fabric and product thus obtained

ABSTRACT

A process for manufacturing a transpirable, permeable, elastic fabric or a non woven fabric and product thus obtained results in said fabric or non-woven fabric including first threads or fibres arranged in the direction of the weft and in that of the warp, including, either in the direction of the weft or in that of the warp or both, second threads or fibres, the melting point of which is below that of the first threads. The fabric is characterised in that it comprises a first stabilisation phase of the fabric and a second phase of heat pre-shaping of the referred fabric resulting from the first phase, blocking the elasticity of the resulting fabric or non-woven fabric in function of the greater or lesser density of the first threads and of the greater or lesser quantity of second threads that are melted.

Proceeding for manufacturing a transpirable, permeable, elastic fabricor a non woven fabric of the type in which said fabric or non-wovenfabric comprises first threads or fibres arranged in the direction ofthe weft and in that of the warp, including, either in the direction ofthe weft or in that of the warp or both, second threads or fibres, themelting point of which is below that of the first threads or fibres andwhich is characterised in that it consists of a first stabilisationphase of the fabric or non-woven fabric in which, at least one part ofsaid fabric or non-woven fabric is subjected to a temperature equivalentto the minimum shape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres,with said temperature being below the melting point of the secondthreads, and a second phase of heat pre-shaping of the referred fabricor non-woven fabric resulting from the first phase in which temperatureand pressure is applied over at least part of said fabric or non-wovenfabric, with said temperature being equal to or greater than the meltingpoint of the second threads or fibres, thus varying the elasticity ofthe area of fabric or non-woven fabric to which the mentioned heat isapplied, blocking the elasticity of the resulting fabric or non-wovenfabric in function of the greater or lesser density of the first threadsor fibres and of the greater or lesser quantity of second threads orfibres that are melted.

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

The closest document is the German patent n_DE4206997, of 1992, in thename of Mr Peter Lotear Ernst Möring and Mr Willy A. de Meyer, whichrefers to a flat textile material, particularly fabrics, knitwear, weftknitwear or textile structures obtained by superposition, part inpolyethylene fibres or other similar fibres, which comprise a minimum oftwo components and which have been subjected to heat and pressuretreatment, characterised in that at least one of the fibre componentshas a higher melting point than the other components or does not melt atall and in that it has been subjected to a heat and pressure treatmentat a temperature at which the component with the highest melting pointhas been taken to a maximum of the beginning of joining by melting.

A procedure is also claimed that consists of a proceeding formanufacturing of a flat textile material of at least two components usedto particularly produce a fabric, knitwear, weft knitwear or textilestructures obtained by superposition of synthetic fibres and thematerial produced is subjected to heat and pressure treatment, in whichthe threads melt, characterised in that the flat material is producedusing threads, with at least one polyethylene or poly propylenecomponent with a melting point that is lower than the other componentsand that the material is subjected to heat and pressure values that takethe highest melting point component to the beginning of melting or whichdoes not melt at all, or a maximum of commencing joining by melting or aminimum the other component is also taken to melting.

BRIEF DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

As can be shown, the application of synthetic threads at varioustemperatures in order to melt some and not others is known.

The problem lies in the fact that it is not possible to shape them, inother words, until now it was not known how to stabilise them.

Moreover, the previous inventions do not clearly state how transpirationis achieved when they are occasionally impermeable.

Lastly, it is not possible to apply the melting threads in a specificdetermined fashion, consequently, neither is it possible to applymelting to already manufactured garments, for example, blocking thethreads in a specific area of the fabric or non-woven fabric garment.

The present invention is a considerable advance in the textile sector.It is necessary to point out that the textile sector evolves onlyslowly, techniques are being employed that have been known for decades,so that any changes “per se” represent a revolution in a quite immobileindustrial area.

The advantage of this invention is that in a first phase, the threads orfibres are stabilised, giving them a shape memory and, in a secondphase, determined threads or fibres are melted so that they are fixed tothe fabric or non-woven fabric or garment. This means that it pre-shapesfirst then fixes. This allows its application to underwear, in jointareas, etc.

Initially at least two different type of threads or fibres are used(more than two can also be used) that have different melting points, butwith the characteristic of the melting point of one is equal to orgreater than the memory temperature of the other, in other words, itshapes and blocks at the same time.

In order to obtain maximum colour similarity in dyeing the fabric ornon-woven fabric, it is recommended that fibres or filaments with thesame base composition are used in the two types of threads. Polyamideswith polyamides and polyester with polyester etc.

One objective of the present invention is a procedure for the productionof a permeable, elastic, transpirable fabric or non-woven fabric of thetype in which said fabric or non-woven fabric comprises first threads orfibres arranged in the direction of the weft and in that of the warp ofthe type, including, either in the direction of the weft or in that ofthe warp or both, second threads or fibres, the melting point of whichis below that of the first threads or fibres and which is characterisedin that it consists of a first stabilisation phase of the fabric ornon-woven fabric in which, at least one part of said fabric or non-wovenfabric is subjected to a temperature equivalent to the minimum shapememory temperature of the first threads or fibres, with said temperaturebeing below the melting point of the second threads, and a second phaseof heat pre-shaping of the referred fabric or non-woven fabric resultingfrom the first phase in which temperature and pressure is applied overat least part of said fabric or non-woven fabric, with said temperaturebeing equal to or greater than the melting point of the second threadsor fibres, thus varying the elasticity of the area of fabric ornon-woven fabric to which the mentioned heat is applied, blocking theelasticity of the resulting fabric or non-woven fabric in function ofthe greater or lesser density of the first threads or fibres and of thegreater or lesser quantity of second threads or fibres that are melted.

Another objective of the present invention is a fabric in accordancewith the previously described proceeding, in which said fabric ornon-woven fabric comprises first threads or fibres arranged in thedirection of the weft and in the direction of the warp, consisting of,either in the direction of the weft or in that of the warp or both,second threads or fibres, the melting point of which is below that ofthe first threads or fibres, characterised in that the melting point ofthe second threads or fibres is equal to or greater than the minimumshape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres.

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

In order to facilitate the description, the present report isaccompanied by three sheets of drawings that show a practical caseexemplary embodiment, which is cited as a non-limiting example of thescope of the present invention:

FIG. 1 is a view of a fabric, the object of this invention, with thearrangement of two types of threads or fibres.

FIG. 2 is an embodiment of the previous fabric for a woman's corset

FIG. 3 is an embodiment that shows the various arrangements of thethreads and fibres.

FIG. 4 is the applications of melting to a garment based on thearrangement of FIG. 3.

AN EXEMPLARY EMBODIMENT OF THE PRESENT INVENTION PATENT

Thus, FIG. 1 illustrates a fabric 3, first threads or fibres 1 andsecond threads or fibres 2.

FIG. 2 shows a corset 6, a first area 4 with only the first threads orfibres and a second area 5 with the second threads or fibres once thesecond phase of the present invention is completed.

FIG. 3 shows a fabric 3, with second threads or fibres 1 and secondthreads or fibres 2.

Lastly, FIG. 4 represents the application of the proceeding of thepresent invention to FIG. 3 in which the first threads or fibres 1 canbe seen, together with the second threads or fibres 2 and second areas 5with the second threads or fibres once the second phase of the presentinvention is completed.

Thus, in an exemplary embodiment, the proceeding for manufacturing atranspirable, permeable, elastic fabric or a non woven fabric, theobject of the present invention, comprises said fabric 3, the firstthreads or fibres 1 arranged in the weft and in the warp, together withsecond threads or fibres 2 in the warp (FIG. 1).

The melting point of the second threads or fibres 2 is lower than thatof the first threads or fibres 1.

Thus, in a first phase, called fabric stabilisation, part of said fabric5 is subjected to a temperature equivalent to the minimum shape memoryof the second threads or fibres 2.

Said temperature is lower than the melting point of the second threads2.

In the second phase, called pre-shaping by heat of the referred fabricresulting from the first phase, heat and temperature are applied to atleast part of said fabric 4, 5, with said temperature being equal to orgreater than the melting point of the second threads or fibres 2,varying the elasticity of the area of fabric or non-woven fabric overwhich the mentioned heat was applied.

In this way, the elasticity of the resulting fabric or non-woven fabricis blocked in function of the greater or lesser density of the firstthreads or fibres 1 and of the greater or lesser quantity of secondthreads of fibres 2 that are melted.

In other words, if there is a large number of second threads or fibres,when the second threads or fibres 2 melt, a level of mesh is achievedthat provides rigidity but little flexibility to area 5 (FIG. 4) becausethey are joined to the threads by the cross stitch. If, on the otherhand, the density of the second threads or fibres 2 is lower, therigidity is reduced.

FIG. 2 shows how the application of the second phase allows thepre-forming of the first area 4 and the elasticity of the second area 5is blocked.

As was previously described, the temperature of the second phase isequal to or greater than the shape memory temperature of the firstthreads or fibres.

It is possible to incorporate a third phase in which a softener isapplied to the product obtained at the end of the second phase. This isbecause it is possible for the end product to be rough and unpleasant tothe touch due to the melted threads or fibres.

The versatility of this proceeding permits its application to woven andknitted fabrics, with one or two sides.

Another possibility (FIGS. 3 and 4) is to carry out the first and secondphases simultaneously by applying different pressure and temperaturevalues at the same time and by areas and, in the case of employing ahigh frequency machines, being able to cut and weld the piece at thesame time.

There is also the possibility of applying the flat procedure (FIG. 4) topreviously cut pieces or completely or partially manufactured garments(in either the first or second phase or both simultaneously) or there isthe possibility of being able to use flat plates for it ormould/counter-mould with shape.

This proceeding can be equally applied to tubular garments produced bythe so-called Santoni procedure. This procedure versatility and optionsare not covered by any of the previous documents of the state of theart, especially those referring to completely or partially manufacturedgarments, since these procedures have to be applied to all the fabricand not partially as in this case.

Thus, the fabric resulting from the previously described proceedingcomprises a fabric 3, the first threads of fibres 1 of which arearranged in the weft and the warp, with the warp consisting of secondthreads or fibres 2, the melting point of which is lower than themelting point of the first threads or fibres 1 and in which the meltingpoint of the second threads or fibres 2 is equal to or greater than theshape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres 1. This allowsthat when the previous process is applied, there are at least twodifferent elasticities in the same fabric.

The first threads or fibres 1 and the second threads or fibres 2 aresynthetic threads or fibres. This is to facilitate thread melting. Infact, they should be selected from the following:

For the first threads or fibres, there are NUREL®, GRILON®, TACTEL®, PA6.10, PA 6.12, polyethylenterepthalates, polybutylenterepthalates,polyesters in general and cellulose acetate etc., which in general areabove 215° C.

For the second threads or fibres 2, there are PA 12, SARAN®, VINYON®,LACTRON® and polypropylene fibres which, in general, do not exceed 180°C.

As indicated for the proceeding, depending on the roughness and feel ofthe end product, the resulting fabric or garment can incorporate asoftener.

The fabric can be a fabric with one or two sides, a cut piece, acircular tube (Santoni) or even an already manufactured garment.

The present invention patent described a new proceeding for themanufacture of a permeable, elastic, transpirable fabric or non-wovenfabric and the fabric obtained. The examples described here do not limitthe present invention and it may have various applications and/oradaptations, all of which are within the scope of the following claims.

1. A process for manufacturing a transpirable, permeable, elastic fabricor a non woven fabric of the type in which said fabric or non-wovenfabric comprises first threads or fibres arranged in the direction ofthe weft and in that of the warp, including, either in the direction ofthe weft or in that of the warp or both, second threads or fibres, themelting point of which is below that of the first threads or fibres andwhich is characterised in that it comprises: a first stabilisation phaseof the fabric or non-woven fabric in which, at least one part of saidfabric or non-woven fabric is subjected to a temperature equivalent tothe minimum shape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres,with said temperature being below the melting point of the secondthreads and a second phase of heat pre-shaping of the referred fabric ornon-woven fabric resulting from the first phase in which temperature andpressure is applied over at least part of said fabric or non-wovenfabric, with said temperature being equal to or greater than the meltingpoint of the second threads or fibres, thus varying the elasticity ofthe area of fabric or non-woven fabric to which the mentioned heat isapplied, blocking the elasticity of the resulting fabric or non-wovenfabric in function of the greater or lesser density of the first threadsor fibres and of the greater or lesser quantity of second threads orfibres that are melted.
 2. Process in accordance with claim 1characterised in that the second phase temperature coincides with theminimum shape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres. 3.Process in accordance with claim 1 characterised in that it incorporatesa third phase in which a softener is applied to the product obtained atthe end of the second phase.
 4. Process in accordance with claim 1characterised in that it is applied to woven and knitted fabrics and ofpone or two sides.
 5. Process in accordance with claim 1 characterisedin that the second phase is applied flat and/or shaped.
 6. Process inaccordance with claim 1 characterised in that the fabric or non-wovenfabric is a cut piece before the second phase is applied.
 7. Process inaccordance with claim 1 characterised in that the fabric or non-wovenfabric is a garment before the first phase is applied.
 8. Process inaccordance with claim 1 characterised in that the fabric or non-wovenfabric is a garment before the second phase is applied.
 9. A fabric madein accordance with the process of claim 1, wherein said fabric ornon-woven fabric comprises first threads or fibres arranged in thedirection of the weft and in that of the warp, including, either in thedirection of the weft or in that of the warp or both, second threads orfibres, the melting point of which is below that of the first threads orfibres and which is characterised in that the melting point of thesecond threads or fibres is equal to or greater than the minimum shapememory temperature of the first threads or fibres.
 10. A fabric inaccordance with claim 9 characterised in that the first threads orfibres and the second threads or fibres are synthetic threads or fibres.11. A fabric in accordance with claim 9 characterised in that itincorporates a softener.
 12. A fabric in accordance with claim 9characterised in that it is a fabric with two sides.
 13. A fabric inaccordance with claim 9 characterised in that it is a cut piece.
 14. Afabric in accordance with claim 9 characterised in that the fabric ornon-woven fabric is a garment.